The Optimistic Traveller

Palm Beach: No Guilt, Just Gilt

If the mansions weren’t quite so ostentatious in Palm Beach, Florida, I could live there — if I could afford it, that is.

The too-new, over-the-top buildings, high columns, verandas – each its own White House or Monticello or Versailles – sure, they’re splendid, but they remind me a little too much of their opposites. In their making, clearly no one said, “Hold on a second,” before adding another useless embellishment. Is this jealousy talking? Maybe. But if I had one of those palaces, I’d grunge it up a little.

The weather, though…you can’t beat it. In the summer it may swelter, but you can always go for a dip to cool off. In March, the rainy season hasn’t started, the days are warm, the Atlantic is the clearest dark teal, and a breeze comes in late afternoon to warrant a sweatshirt and a cuddle. There’s nothing quite like it.

Flights into Ft. Lauderdale or Miami are almost always affordable.

On a recent visit, I tried the happy hour at Elisabetta’s, an Italian restaurant by the port. The fresh muddled strawberry basil martini, and other artisan cocktails, were $7, and the draft Peroni was only $4. I loved it so much I came back for dinner and enjoyed fantastic pizza and some garlicy rapini. It was top-notch.

At Swifty’s in the Colony Hotel, you walk into a lavish old-school Florida vibe (think Earnest Hemingway -Havana – Fortune 500 money). With a name like Swifty’s, I expected brown paper on the tables and at least a couple of beer bellies. Conversely, the wallpaper alone seems like a work of art, and the women milling about the lobby Dolce and Gabbana store with small dogs in their arms and puckered faces bring an immediate sense of hyperawareness to oneself, if one is wearing casual clothes and hasn’t had a recent shower (or facelift). The pool bar is luxurious, and the chickpea fritters appetizer would make a perfect meal by itself, though as an appetizer, it is overpriced. On a bed of baba ghanoush, sprinkled with mint and pomegranate seeds, every bite tastes like Jerusalem or Abu Dhabi.

The huge pink shrimp in Florida are pretty much the best in the world, thanks to the wild-caught and farmed fast growers on the Gulf side and in the clear waters of the South Atlantic. Probably the most delicious fried shrimp (I usually eat them steamed or boiled) I’ve ever had were at Benny’s on the Beach. You can also get a whole fried local fish of the day and sit out and listen to the ocean waves as you do it. Also – order the fantastic watermelon martini with real watermelon juice.

The area is known for its incredible thrift stores, though I’ll admit I haven’t found the Holy Grail there yet. Frankly, with weather and beaches as beautiful, I will not be cooped up sorting through knickknacks and tired St. John knits, no matter how amazing they are.

For accommodations, the Eau Palm Beach Resort, if you have a few extra dollars to spare, sits right on the water, and the décor by Jonathan Adler is phenomenal. Every corner of the hotel is impeccably curated. I’m also partial to the boutique inside for its high-end swimsuits and designer-inspired accessories. Across the street is Tara Grinna, for other fine bathing attire and resort wear. The Embassy Suites, slightly north along the coast in Deerfield Beach, is more affordable but has similar views and luxurious amenities, including a complimentary breakfast and happy hour. Boca Raton and Mizner Park are right nearby in case you want to venture out in quieter neighborhoods.

A fun evening activity in the area is always a sunset cruise, bringing you out to the Atlantic from the bay and close up to giant yachts owned by any number of famous (mostly bad) people. If you prefer to stay on land, there are so many good local public beaches to go to, all of them with white sand and clear water. In fact, right down the road from Mar-a-Lago is a free beach you can sometimes find nearly deserted, with metered parking nearby. For nightlife, Miami is close enough (Café La Trova for Cuban food, music, and stargazing), too, but downtown Palm Beach has live music in any number of spots and great restaurants like Batch for house-infused spirits and delicious, hearty salads.

In the mornings, grab your coffee and head to the sand to spot dolphins off the shore or just to take in some healthy salt air. I did this once when visiting for a wedding and felt warmed inside and out by the fleeting, startling scene; I always believe animals happy in nature to be harbingers of something fortuitous to come. These simplest of pleasures far overshadow the declarative signs of money, if you look past them to see the real things of beauty.